承蒙H大大的邀約，讓小的有這麼難得的機會，跟膜拜酒Harlan Estate的酒莊主人一起享用他們家的酒款。唯一可惜的是，小的當天臨時有緊急的工作無法準時到達現場，到場時根本大家已經吃到甜點了，還好小的雖然以慢食聞名，但是總還是可以狼吞虎嚥的把東西全部吞下去。

今天的場地在君悅的君寓，果然有專人在旁邊打理，而且還有大廚出來致意，服務真的超讚。不過這裡只適合做私人宴會，能容納的客人數有限，而且有很高的包場費用(可見得今天H大辦這場的成本有多龐大了，太感謝了)小的一向只聞其名，今天終於得見金主們的用餐地點，果然大開眼界。

因為臨時緊急的工作，所以到達現場時，酒已經醒了夠久了，反而更適合喝。下圖由左至右分別是1992,1995,2001,跟2005的Harlan Estate。

香草裹鮮鯖魽生魚薄片配葡萄柚和苦苣沙拉佐香草醬汁

酥脆鴨肝裹洋芋配燻蘋果及芹菜佐巴沙米可醬汁。這鴨肝真的很好吃，炸得外表酥，裡面嫩。

紅酒燉犢牛頰配培根高麗菜肉。這肉煮得超爛，完全入味。

以上三道菜小的大概在30分鐘內完全制勝。然後就看到大廚出來跟大家打招呼了。H大旁邊的就是Harlan的酒莊主人，Bill Harlan。

香檳配柳橙雪冰沙

煎美國牛菲力捲義式火腿，雪竇，洋芋蓉佐松露醬汁。

榛果軟糕配紅糖蛋白酥及新鮮桑葚

軟糕裡面真的滿滿都是榛果及水果。這甜點超好吃。

配咖啡的是巧克力盒，整個盒子全部是巧克力做成的，加上裡面的甜點，讓小的真得大開眼界了。

2006 Kistler Vineyards Russian River Valley Chardonnay Dutton Ranch

這支白酒小的喝的時候已經桶位完全散去，就是一支甜美果香四溢的酒了。順口，甜美的香氣會讓人想一口接一口的喝下去。決不是一般美國肥肥的白酒可相比的酒。

RP:92-94。The 2006 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch is structured and tannic, with more acidity, and a leaner, more backward personality than the Durell Vineyard, with a chalky character. White currant, hazelnut, and wood spice notes are present in this medium to full-bodied white.

WS:92。Serves up a complex mix of flavors, with ripe, spicy apple, pear, honeysuckle and fig. Full-bodied, deep and persistent, ending with a citrusy mineral edge. Drink now through 2012.

TZ:93。Pale chartreuse color. Exotically perfumed aromas of lemon zest, pear skin, green almond and toasty lees. Vivid, tightly focused citrus and orchard fruit flavors are given depth by grilled nut and floral honey qualities, which lend roundness too. The lemony quality repeats on the impressively long, energetic finish. Give this youngster some age

1992 Harlan Estate

這是第一支HARLAN，好像是下午就開瓶了，小的喝到的時候已經是晚上九點，喝起來居然是老酒的滋味，也不過才十幾年的酒，開瓶不過五個多鐘頭就已經往下走了。有點小失望、丹寧是非常柔順，酒色已經是暗沉的褐紫色了，主要是煙燻味、草味、樹根的味道為主。

RP:96。The newest release, the 1992, offers a dense purple color, and a splendid sweet nose of minerals, blackcurrants, toast, and spice. Opulent and rich, with full body, and well-integrated sweet tannin, this expansive yet graceful wine possesses layers of flavor that caress the palate. The wine is accessible, yet still youthful and unformed. It should drink well for 20+ years. Dazzling wines! I urge interested readers to get their names on the winery's mailing list if they want to purchase these wines

WS:89。Dark, intense and concentrated, with layers of coffee, currant, earth, mocha and cedar framed by firm, chewy tannins. Impressive for its vitality 

1995 Harlan Estate 

相隔三年的酒，卻有絕然不同的感受。這支酒就是強而有力的強壯年輕酒體，但是不是20出頭的強衝猛撞，反而是有點沉穩的30出頭的年輕人(何時開始，30出頭對小的來說已經算是年輕人了!)。單寧厚實卻不澀口。酒色是穩重的深紫色，可能是醒酒醒的時間夠了，所以小的喝的時候正好喝，是澎湃的大海的感受，深度，廣度都有，簡直想沉浸其中。

RP:99。The 1995 Proprietary Red Wine is almost as perfect as the 1994. It has gotten even better in the bottle, and remains one of the most remarkable young Cabernet Sauvignons I have tasted. The wine, a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot, was aged in 100% new oak, which adds subtle pain grille/toasty scents. This opaque purple-colored Cabernet offers up a nose of smoke, coffee beans, black and blue fruits, minerals, and roasted herbs. It is extremely full-bodied, with spectacular purity, exquisite equilibrium, and a seamless personality with everything in total harmony. The finish lasts for more than 40 seconds. This extravagantly rich, profoundly complex 1995 will give its 1994 sibling a run for its money.

WS:95。Very jammy aromas of strawberries and raspberries. Full body, very ripe tannins. Round and opulent. Big and juicy. A big change in style from earlier vintages. Full-blown Californian. 

2001 Harlan Estate

一支RP100分的酒，結果醒的不夠徹底，只能說還可以想見她有相當大的潛力可以再繼續陳年。

RP:100。Rivaling the 1994 and 1997, the 2001 Harlan Estate is a perfect wine for my palate. Tasted on four separate occasions, this offering, which spent 28 months in oak before being bottled unfined and unfiltered, is an extraordinary effort that comes across as a hypothetical blend of Mouton-Rothschild, La Mission-Haut-Brion, and Montrose. A synthesis in style between the more elegant, delineated, structured 1994, and the port-like, over-the-top, viscous 1997, this extraordinary 2001 was the “wine of my trip,” even though I had already had it from bottle several months earlier. An inky/purple color is accompanied by a stupendous bouquet of lead pencil shavings interwoven with coffee, new saddle leather, melted licorice, cedarwood, black currant liqueur, and violets. Explosive richness, a marvelous, full-bodied texture, and fabulous purity, concentration, complexity, and nobleness are the stuff of legends. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2028+.

WS:96。Tremendous. Tightly wound, with a compact, dense, chewy core of currant, mineral, blackberry and cedary oak, all sharply focused, revealing extra flavor facets and deep concentration, with hints of espresso and mocha and a long, detailed finish. Best from 2006 through 2014. 1,250 cases made.

2005 Harlan Estate

這反而部像是前面2001年的酒，還是說現在釀酒的方式已經改變，讓酒變得在年輕的時候就已經易飲了。所以一整個就是甜美的果香，粉紅的滋味，是少女情懷的詩意，好像被少女坐懷，是整場小的最喜歡的酒款。雖然喜歡2001的人好像比較多，不過小的還是喜歡這年份的酒。

RP:97。Not unexpectedly, the 2005 Harlan Estate performed slightly better than it did last year. As these wines often do, it continues to put on weight as it is bottled very late by Napa standards, and there is no fining or filtration. The 2005 exhibits a gorgeous thick-looking, ruby/purple color in addition to a beautiful nose of burning embers interwoven with creme de cassis, roasted meats, sweet black truffles, and spring flowers. A hint of lead pencil shavings also emerges from this cuvee, which seems to want to be both a Pauillac and a ripe vintage of La Mission Haut Brion. Full-bodied, dense, pure, and revealing sweeter tannin than I remember, it can be drunk now, but it will no doubt display even greater complexity in 10, 20, and 30 years.

WS:94。Dense and earthy, with savory herb, dried currant, spice, mint and cedary oak flavors, all tightly wound, compact and concentrated, yet with a seam of elegance and finesse. Very intense and powerful. To be released spring 2009. Best from 2011 through 2018.

IWC:97。Full bright ruby. A black hole of a nose: cassis, black raspberry, mocha and licorice, with a suggestion of almost roasted fruits. Then utterly palate-saturating, with a distinctly layered texture to the dark fruit and mineral flavors. Impeccably balanced, fresh wine with a spectacular slow-building finish that coats the palate with a flavor of black raspberry. A knockout.

在狼吞虎嚥的喘息機會，還是跟BILL聊了一下，他非常相信territoire的理念，也堅持他的酒莊所釀出來的酒就是為了表現NAPA這個地塊的風土。所以，當小的問他怎麼把每個年份的酒釀成好像是不同酒莊出來的時候，BILL相當感到相當奇怪，他認為他的酒非常的有一致性，每隻酒喝起來就是同一個酒莊所釀的酒啊!

小的真的喝的不多，所以無法感受到所謂同一酒莊的一致性為何?不過，這裡的每支酒都好有自己的個性，雖然都是同一個父母生的小孩，兄弟姊妹間的差異大到像是隔壁老王跟對門老李的差異這麼大嗎?也許這也是表現出了這條巷子的風土吧！

2006 Martinelli Winery Russian River Valley Chardonnay Zio Tony Ranch

這是H大提供的迎賓酒，過小的喝到的時候已經是晚上十點半，是送客酒了，但是開瓶這麼酒，還是很新鮮，居然有氣泡般在喉間跳躍的感受，不會太甜也有些酸度的平衡!

“Zio” meaning 'uncle' in Italian

RP:93。Honeyed tropical fruit, brioche, roasted hazelnut, and floral characteristics are found in the 2006 Chardonnay Zio Tony Ranch along with a voluptuous texture, good acidity, and a subtle touch of new oak. This is the fullest, richest, most intense of Martinelli’s Chardonnays. It should be consumed over the next 3-4 years.

WS:91。A bold, rich, creamy style, with layers of fig, apricot, hazelnut and a hint of citrus. Has a tight focus and finishes with a long, lingering aftertaste. Best from 2012 through . 560 cases made.

IWC:92。Light yellow. Smoky minerals, orange and baking spices on the nose. Deep, densely packed citrus and pit fruit flavors are energized by dusty minerals, which add lift and cut. Combines power and vivacity deftly, finishing with excellent cut and outstanding length. I suspect that this will reward cellaring but there's a lot going on right now.

整場小的只有太匆忙的遺憾，但是太感謝H大大的安排，讓小的躬逢盛會。