前言：夏日炎炎喝什麼酒最好？當然是冰涼的白酒囉！7月文生會將一訪 Chablis ，由白酒達人麥克遜大大精選的酒單，讓朋友們能一嘗 Chardonnay 所呈現的另一種典型。

時間：7月25日 4:30PM

地點：Non-Zero

酒單：

1. Domaine François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre 2004 BH:90-93O, NT$4425

2. Domaine Billaud-Simon Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir 2004 BH:91-93, NT$3075

3. Domaine Long Depaquit (Albert Bichot) Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2005 NT$2700

4. Domaine Louis Michel Chablis Grand Cru Grenouilles 2005 NT$2100

5. Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses 2004 WA:94; ST:91-93; BH:92-95, NT$2700

6. La Chablisiènne Chablis 1er Cru Grande Cuvée 2004 WS:90, NT$1000(左右, 要找一下)

人數：14 人，後補 2 人

報名：請注意會長公告

參考酒評：

1. Domaine François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre 2004

Burghound/Allen Meadows (BH) Review.BH 93 A ripe nose of orchard fruit, citrus and a lovely stony character that also displays a touch of reduction highlights the big, powerful and intense flavors that possess excellent depth of material and perhaps the best complexity of any of these 1ers. This is a racehorse with firm acidity and terrific focus and it can compete with the grands crus in 2004 as it definitely has that 'wow' factor.

2. Domaine Billaud-Simon Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir 2004

BH:91-93, Allen Meadows gives this 91-93 PInts and comments "Don't Miss!": " As lovely as the Montée de Tonnerre is, the Vaudésir is a big step up in sheer size, weight and power as this is a big and dramatic effort that grabs your attention right from the beginning with a soaring nose of very ripe fruit and fantastically intense and delineated medium-full flavors blessed with superb material and huge length. This is not necessarily an elegant wine but for raw pop and intensity, this is the class of the cellar. Note that this will require ample patience." (Burghound, 10/05)

3. Domaine Long Depaquit (Albert Bichot) Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2005

By Bill Nanson
Burgundy-Report (4/1/2007)
(Long-Depaquit Chablis Le Clos) A more mineral rather than sweet nose - quite understated with faint brioche and hints of citrus. Likewise the palate displays understated power and real minerality - super depth. What fruit shows itself is very ripe but pretty much hidden under the structure. Really fine acidity pushes a wonderful length. Really excellent.

4. Domaine Louis Michel Chablis Grand Cru Grenouilles 2005

BH：90-92 points Allen Meadows: "A fruity, floral and notably spicy nose of moderate elegance leads to round but impressively focused flavors that like the Vaudésir, possess more minerality than usual for both the cru and the vintage, all wrapped in a finish that offers ample Chablis character and outstanding power and length. This too could surprise to the upside." (Oct 01, 2006) 91 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar: "Good pale color. Musky, reticent aromas of lemon, menthol and white truffle. Rich and silky, with nicely integrated acidity framing the supple flavors of lemon and white flowers. Conveys a slightly sweet impression but the flavor>s are classic. Finishes dense and aromatic, with a perfumed note of raw pineapple. This has turned out well." (July/Aug 07)

5. Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses 2004

Burghound:92-95 '...round, sweet and powerful flavors that possess enormous depth of material and the vibrancy of the finish is flat out unbelievable...a dazzling effort that vies credibly for top honors.'

Tanzer:91-93 'Very discreet aromas of apple and spice. Creamy-sweet and round, with notes of apple, pineapple and spearmint. A rather easy going grand cru with a lush texture. Slow-building, very rich finish features powdered stone and white flowers.'

International Wine Cellar / 93
''Lemon, spice, anise and hazelnut on the complex nose, along with a suggestion of oyster shell. Then densely packed and sweet, with superb energy and cut. There's an almost iodiney reserve here, and yet the wine is almost accessible today owing to its juicy sweetness of fruit and silky texture. Very elegantly styled Chablis, less minerally and austere than the Valmur but with compelling richness for the vintage.'' - ST

Burghound / 95
''As I suggested in my in-barrel review, this had the potential to be a first rate stunner of a wine and it has indeed come together. In fact, I see no need to modify the original note, which I repeat here other than to point out that as good as the Valmur and Vaudésir, there is another dimension present here. Green fruit and citrus aromas with a subtle trace of quinine serve to highlight round, sweet and powerful flavors that possess enormous depth of material and the vibrancy of the finish is flat out unbelievable. In a sense, this is a deceptive wine in that no more than the finish appears to be winding down then it picks up again. At present, this is the longest and most persistent wine in the range and while this aspect is subject to change with time, it is a dazzling effort that vies credibly for top honors. I could still taste this wine the next day!'' - AM

6. La Chablisiènne Chablis 1er Cru Grande Cuvée 2004
WS:90, WA:94

Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate
Reviewer, Pierre Rovani - The 2004 Chablis Les Preuses (domaine) reveals a nose of intense purity. Its aromas of gravel, stones, candied citrus fruits, pears, and hints of toast lead to a crystalline, medium-bodied character. This feminine efforts broad personality is filled with minerals, stones, iodine, and fresh herbs whose flavors linger in its amazingly long, detailed finish. Projected maturity: 2007-2014.

產區簡介：

Chablis 是 Burgundy 最北邊的一個產區，位於伯恩市北方 160 公里，行政區域屬於 Burgundy，然而事實上，它低溫、多變的氣候條件與地理性質，反而更近似於東北方 50 公里外的香檳區，而與 Burgundy 截然不同。Chablis 產區原有 3000 多公頃的葡萄園，因應國際白酒熱潮，1970~80 年代曾為擴大 Chablis 法定產區產生爭議，保守派認為只有 Kimmeridgian 白堊土才是 Chablis 白酒的品質保證，反對者認為應納入 Portlandian 石灰岩地層，後來法國法定產區標準局採納了後者的意見，到了 2006 年，Chablis 產區已擴增到 4600 多公頃，全部生產 Chardonnay 葡萄，釀成的白酒，堅實而不粗糙、清爽而多酸，帶有打火石、礦石、金屬的冷冽或青乾草的風味，是 Chardonny 的另一種典型。

Chablis 白酒難以模仿的原創性之秘密，來自於侏羅紀晚期 Kimmeridgian Stage (啟莫里階，地質學上的地層年代。名稱來自英國海岸邊的一個村莊 Kimmeridge) ，由牡蠣貝類層層堆疊而成的白堊岩所風化之土壤。一般人可能搞不太清楚石灰岩、泥灰岩與白堊岩間之差別，搞清楚這些岩層，有助於了解 Chablis 各地葡萄園土質的差異。基本上，這三種岩石都是以碳酸鈣、氫氧化鈣為主要成份的岩石，這些化合物的來源，皆來自於侏羅紀晚期的海生物、貝類、細菌等遺骸之沉積物。

因沉積年代之差異，Portlandian Stage (波特蘭階，地質學上的地層年代。露頭於英國波特蘭島被發現而得名) 位於較下層，因層層疊疊的地層壓力，碳酸鈣產生變質，結晶而成石灰岩 (水泥以硬性碳酸鈣加黏土煆燒而成，所凝結硬塊，性質類似波特蘭島的岩石，所以水泥也叫波特蘭水泥)；泥灰岩則是碳酸鈣與黏土沉積物硬化而成的岩石；Kimmeridgian Stage 位於最上層，為非結晶化石灰岩，泥質石灰岩未固結前的樣態，呈白色，岩質鬆軟破碎，排水極佳，也叫白堊岩。

Chablis 產區土質就是由這三種岩石組合而成，7 個特級園與大部份的一級園，皆位於 Kimmeridgian 白堊質土壤的區塊，村莊級則混有較多的泥灰岩黏土，至於 Petit Chablis (小夏布利級) 則多位於 1980 年代後擴增的 Portlandian 石灰岩土壤的區塊。

了解 Chablis 各地土質之差異，尚未能完全透視 Chablis 產區，主要原因是產區位置偏北，受氣候影響很大，偏冷的年份，位置不佳的葡萄園，很難達到足夠的熟度，釀成的 Chablis 白酒，細瘦、清淡、堅硬而多酸，應慎選年份並考量葡萄園的位置。Chablis 所有的特級園皆連成一整片，位於由 寧靜河 (Serein) 切割出來的南向與西向坡，能得到最多陽光的眷顧，達到足夠的熟度。Vaudesir 與 Les Clos 是最優秀的兩個特級園，風味最為豐富、強烈，類似伯恩丘最頂尖的白酒，陳年後會呈現高貴的複雜度，其中 Les Clos 面積最大也最有名，香味豐富、強烈，持續力也最好，陳年後會發展出類似索甸般的香氣，而 Vaudesir 則較為細緻；Les Preuses 園風格則非常醇美、圓潤；Grenouilles 與 Blanchot 園則香氣最強烈；Valmur 園則風格濃郁；Bougros 園是後來新增的特級園，風格最為獨特，辨識度最高。除了 7 個特級園，Chablis 還有 79 個一級園，其中最佳的 12 個一級園，皆位於 Serein 河北岸，往特級園西北與東邊延伸的葡萄園，例如 Montée de Tonnerre 及 Mont de Milieu 這兩個一級園。

圖說：Chablis 特級園與最優秀的一級園，皆分佈於 Serein River 北岸之南向及西向坡，Google 實在可以告訴我們許多事，比對 Chablis 葡萄園分佈圖，圖中土壤顏色較深的地塊，完全沒有種植葡萄，而位於 Serein River 北岸，土壤顏色較淺的南向與西向坡，機乎都是一級園的分佈位置。

最後影響 Chablis 酒質的，當然就是各別酒莊的表現了，Domaine François Raveneau 大概是 Chablis 最好的酒莊了，釀出 Chablis 最細緻、生命力最長的白酒；Domaine Long Depaquit 則採用現代化的釀酒技術；Louis Michel 使用不繡鋼統發酵，完全不使用橡木桶；William Fèvre 則謹慎使用新舊不同比例的橡木桶。雖然各家酒莊對使用橡木桶有不同看法，反對者認為橡木桶帶來過多的香草味，將破壞 Chablis 類似金屬獨特的冷冽風格，但無論風格如何不同，上述酒莊都是 Chablis 表現最好的酒莊。其他表現優異的酒莊還有 Laroche、Billaud-Simon....等。