前言: 文生會自進入勃根地產區後，過去半年來多巡迴於 Cote de Nuits 及部份 Cote de Beaune 的紅酒村莊，對於白酒則甚少著墨。事實上，勃根地除了創造了 Pinot Noir 這個紅酒品種的典型外，以勃根地為原鄉的 Chardonnay，也撐起了葡萄酒世界的半邊天。時序即將入夏，漸漸進入適合喝白酒的季節，Chilli 提了一份精彩而完整的 Proposal，酒款涵蓋了 Cote de Beaune 主要的白酒村莊，就讓 Burgundy White 為大家消解一分暑氣吧。

勃根地分為五大酒區, 由北而南分為

夏布利(Chablis)
金丘區(Cote d' Or): 金丘區再區分為 -> 夜丘 (Cote de Nuits) & 上夜丘(Haut Cote de Nuits)；伯恩丘(Cote de Beaune) & 上伯恩丘(Haut Cote de Beaune)
夏隆內丘(Cote Chalonnaise)
馬貢內(Maconnais): 下轄以白酒為主的普依富塞(Pouilly-Fuisse)
薄酒萊區(Beaujolais)

後續的品酒會，我們將陸續為大家湊齊勃根地的拼圖。

主題: 2002 Burgundy White

時間: May 30^th (Sat) 2.30pm

地點: Non-zero 非零餐廳

費用: 酒價全部 $24,400- 預計分成14份，每人 $1,750

除酒錢之外，另加 $300-$400 給餐廳非零(含場地費加上 cheeze,堅果,麵包等點心與水資。) 酒杯請自行攜帶。(場地請參考: http://blog.xuite.net/chilliko/blog/22811040)

酒單:

Corton-Chalemagne:

1. 2002 Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne

番外加一，由T大善人 Donate 的酒

8. 2002 Vincent Girardin Corton Charlemagne

Meursault:

2. 2002 Pierre Morey Meursault Perrieres

3. 2002 Francois Mikulski Meursault Charmes

Chassagne-Montrachet:

4. 2002 Michel Neillon Chassagne-Montrachet Clos St. Jean

5. 2002 Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot

Puligny-Montrachet:

6. 2002 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts

7.  2002 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatieres

I. Vintage: 2002 White Burgundy Summary

A great vintage for White Burgundy . The winter was dryer than normal, about half the rain that the region received the previous winter. A dryer than average winter followed by a warm and dry Spring led to a relatively early flowering. Summer was cool and very dry which led to the grapes maturing but with the acids levels remaining constant. More than a year after the harvest the whites are showing exceptional generosity of fruit and a fresh but not intrusive level of acidity. There is a similarity with 1996, when the north wind also played a role, but the wines have more flesh, perhaps more akin to 1992. http://www.bbr.com/vintage-52002-white-burgundy-2002

Burgundy Wine Map

II 簡單認識布跟第白酒

(資料來源: 裕森大師酒瓶裡的風景)

Cote-de-Beaune 白酒有兩個精華區段。

『北區是 Corton-Charlemagne』。由金丘山坡向外形成的圓錐形小山，有一大片向南與向東的坡地，特級葡萄園 Corton & Corton-Charlemagne 就位於此。Corton-Charlemagne 只產白酒，出產豐沛厚實的夏多內白酒，常有豐富濃郁的成熟果味，相當雄壯豐厚。(有的說是猛烈與張狂。) 最好的 Corton-Charlemagne 白酒可以與 Montrachet 白酒一較高下!

南區是 Meursault; Puligny-Montrachet; Chassagne-Montrachet

『Meursault』村所出產的 Chardonnay 口感圓熟豐美，香氣濃郁常有熱帶水果奶油與香草的香氣，因為滑潤的肥美口感而成為重要的 Chardonnay 典型。Meursault 沒有特級園，有26個一級園，最優良的三個一級園有接近特級園的水準: Les Charmes、Les Perrieres 和 Les Genevrieres。他們都位於村南往 Puligny-Montrachet 延伸的山坡上。特別是 Perriers 的下坡的自然條件最好，甚至可以媲美 GC Montrachet。精采的 Perriers 常有多層次的口感變化，討喜的果味加上迷人香氣，是 Meursault 最有個性的葡萄酒。而 Charmes 因為早熟的甜潤口感得名，雖然沒有 Perriers 的深度，但比較可口。Perrieres 的陳年潛力也比 Charmes 來的好。 

『Chassagne-Montrachet』與 Puligny-Montrachet 一起分享 Montrachet 與 Batard-Montrachet 兩個葡萄園。村南產紅酒，白酒接近 Puligny-Montrachet，但是口感較為平順柔和。自有的特級葡萄園是  Criots-Batard-Montrachet，有20個一級葡萄園。

『Puligny-Montrachet』是伯恩丘白酒的最精華區，口感常有新鮮杏仁、礦石、蕨類植物、蜂蜜、熱帶水果、及白花等香氣。口感較 Meursault 來的強硬，但均衡優雅! 村內有四個特級葡萄園: Montrachet, Chevalier-Montrachet, Batard-Montrachet, Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet。17個一級園, 最出名的即是緊鄰 Montrachet 的 Les Demoiselles, Cailleret 以及 Les Pucelles。但是往北與 Montrachet位於同一高度的 Folatieres 以及在 Meursault 村邊的 Les Combettes和 Les Champ Canet 也是頂尖的一級葡萄園。There are 23 premier crus in whole or in part, but some of the premier crus are entitled to sell their wine under the 14 major premier crus. The fourteen are: Les Caillerets, Les Chalumeaux, Le Champ-Canet, Le Clavoillon, Clos de la Garenne, Les Pucelles, Les Perrieres, Les Referts, Les Combettes, Les Folatieres,

Puligny 白酒的表現比 Meursalt 白酒要來的清淡細緻，主要原因是 Puligny 村的地下水位比較高，難以挖掘夠深的地下酒窖來存放培養葡萄酒的橡木桶度過第二年的冬天，好讓酒質更為深厚!

III 酒評及酒莊簡介：

Corton-Charlemagne:

1. 2002 Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne

Burgundy report: http://www.burgundy-report.com/304/features/bonneau.html

Wine Spectator's 2005 Top 100 Wines! (#82)

http://www.wine.com/V6/Bonneau-du-Martray-Corton-Charlemagne-Grand-Cru-2002/wine/85811/detail.aspx

Domaine Bonneau du Martray, on the hillside of the village of Pernand-Vergelesses, is a continuous vineyard of 27 acres, unusual in Burgundy.

In a word, elegance. The effects of the terroir combined with restrained use of oak result in very long-lived wines that marry superbly with food. Ideally they need a few years bottle age to allow the very complex flavors to bloom. Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne, a wine of extraordinary richness and aging potential, only begins to shows its true colors after 6-10 years.

WA: 92-94

"Boasting terrific aromatic richness, the white flower and ripe apple-scented 2002 Corton-Charlemagne has awesome depth, gorgeous balance, and is impressively refined. Copious quantities of spiced minerals are intermingled with white fruits in its intense, fresh, concentrated core. This light to medium-bodied wine is not a blockbuster, yet I'd rather dine with Audrey Hepburn than Anna Nicole Smith."

Meursault:

2. 2002 Pierre Morey Meursault Perrieres

Winemakers: Pierre and his daughter Anne. Surface area: 52 ares. Bottling after 18 months.
Very reduced and there was not a back-up bottle. Quite a developed colour. Full. Backward. Very good acidity. But judgement deferred.

Classic Perrieres aromas of lemon, minerals and hazelnut. Broad, sweet and pure on entry, then a bit tight in the middle, with good juicy cut but only moderate flesh. Strong minerality carries through to the rather uncompromising finish, which is stony, tactile and quite dry

IWC: 93;  BH: 90-93

3. 2002 Francois Mikulski Meursault Charmes

雖然本酒莊創立僅有短短十數年，卻已經有非常高的知名度-尤其是在美國市場，並受到許多世界級酒評家的讚賞，可以說是 Burgundy 新生代釀酒師的閃耀明星。Domaine Mikulski 成立於1992年, 現任莊主 François Mikulski 是出生於布根地的波蘭後裔，曾在加州的 Calera 酒莊實習，後來也採用美式比較有效率的農耕技巧。但是他說: We are not just following fashion, like new wood or sweet wine, he says. We have a tradition and all of us are working hard to get good quality. ... - Previously our wines did not have enough minerality. The grapes were too ripe. They were a little heavy. But now the style is coming back with a certain elegance in the wine. That's why I only use 20 percent of new oak. 15 would be enough. Then of course one must keep the bottle for at least five years to get the real style of Meursault. (http://www.bourgogne-info.eu/html/francois_mikulski.html )

WS:89 A solid Meursault, if not that dynamic, showing hazelnut and honey notes on an elegant, medium-bodied frame. A subtle, deceptive white. Drink now through 2010. 300 cases made. (BS)

Chassagne-Montrachet:

4. 2002 Michel Neillon Chassagne-Montrachet Clos St. Jean

WA:89 Hazelnuts and anise can be discerned in the nose of the 2002 Chassagne-Montrachet Clos Saint-Jean. Big, broad, rich, and suave, this lush, ripe wine has a zesty note of lime that cuts through its otherwise velvety pear-flavored personality. Drink it over the next 5 years. Michel Niellon began harvesting on the 21st of September. 'It's the first Saturday after the ban de vendange. That's when I always harvest.' His natural potential alcohols ranged from 12.5 to 12.8%, and he describes 2002 as a year with 'loads of flesh, a year to drink young or age six to eight years.' On this latest point, Niellon stressed that he enjoys his wines when they are young. 'I like them on the fruit. Others can drink them however they want, but I drink wine to drink fruit. In fact,' he went on, 'even though everybody loves the 1996s, I don't like them. I like supple wines.' Niellon, like Alsace's Olivier Humbrecht, believes that all whites should be decanted, something that readers should try at home. Personally, I have found that this is the way to go, as it allows the wines to blossom.

WS:91 Full, lush and creamy, already showing terroir elements like earth and mineral, as well as honey and vanilla pastry notes. Very supple and persistent. Balanced, with a citrus note emerging on the finish. Drink now through 2010. 960 cases made. (BS)

5. 2002 Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot

Domaine Ramonet 是 Chassagne-Montrachet 最知名的酒莊。其白酒都有著 resinous (樹酯)跟水果的特色，The white Morgeot is an exercise in sophisticated excess. (http://www.cellarnotes.net/domaine_ramonet.html )

WS:93 Dense and tightly wound, offering toast, peach, citrus and mineral flavors matched to a lively structure and supple texture. This smolders under the surface with tension and energy. Terrific length. Best from 2006 through 2012

Puligny-Montrachet:

6. 2002 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts

酒莊目前由 Etienne SAUZET 的孫女 Emilie 跟她老公 Benoit RIFFAULT 一起經營。(http://www.etiennesauzet.com/index2_uk.htm )

WS:91 Subtle and appealing. A fresh, fruity style, displaying lemon, mineral, vanilla and hazelnut aromas and flavors on a medium-bodied frame. It's lively and concentrated, with a lingering aftertaste of butterscotch. Drink now through 2009.

WA:89-91 The 2002 Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts sports a nose of acacia blossoms and stones. Light to medium-bodied, rich, and masculine, this fleshy, lush, silky-textured effort boasts well-focused flavors of resin-laced minerals. It should be drunk over the next 5-6 years.   'I have only good things to say about 2002. It is the fourth in a series of good vintages, starting with the 1999s. There was no rot, great maturity, and excellent balance to add backbone,' said Gerard Boudot, Sauzet's winemaker. He went on to add, '2002 is a very good vintage. Some people compare it to 1996, but those were much more austere wines. Some people speak of 1992, but it is livelier. Maybe it reminds me of 1985.'

7. 2002 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatieres

Leflaive 是 Puligny-Montrachet 最令人讚賞的酒莊，並且是本區採用自然動力種植法的先驅。

WA:92-93 There is outstanding aromatic depth to the spiced mineral-scented 2002 Puligny-Montrachet Folatieres. A lovely, opulent, satiny-textured beauty, this is a deep, concentrated effort dominated by spiced apples. Highly expressive, rich, and possessing a long, elegant finish, it is a candidate for drinking over the next 7-8 years.
To Pierre Morey, the 2002s are "from normal yields and reflect their terroir, two signs of a great vintage." He went on to add, "Though it was an easy year in the vineyard without any burnt grapes, freezes, or hail, I'll admit we were very worried between the twentieth of August and tenth of September, when the weather was wet and dreary. Thankfully, we were saved by the north wind." He added that in 2003, Puligny-Montrachet had battled freeze, multiple hailstorms, and oidium (powdery mildew).

報名：請注意板上公告，將於本文 post 到 5/5 午夜12:00間公佈報名開始訊息。 

活動集錦

嗯~ 大家是既認真又......疑惑！

沉默......除了沉默還是沉默(以上橋段來自古龍小說，哈哈！)

揭曉的 8支酒，面對不熟悉的勃根地白酒，果然真的錯很大

後記：

ㄟ~ 之前的文生會(1995 Bordeaux) 已證明，矇瓶矇到 8支酒的難度將大大的提高，面對不熟悉的勃根地白酒，mmm 只好舉白旗投降，我的邏輯是這樣的，因為 Puligny 村的地下水位比較高，難以挖掘夠深的地下酒窖來存放培養葡萄酒的橡木桶度過第二年的冬天，因此酒質較清淡，4,7 號酒閃著青綠色光芒，酒體比較淡，猜測是 Puligny-Montrachet，其中 7號酒較為優雅，猜測是 2002 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatieres，幸運地矇對唯一的一支酒。1,8 歸類為 Corton-Charlemagne，8號酒有一點怪味，想想是不是 T大又從某個'被遺忘的角落'找出來的酒？因此猜 8號酒是 2002 Vincent Girardin Corton Charlemagne，結果，答案剛好相反(T大！對不起~我誤解你了)，經過這事，我終於知道，T大其實真的是 T大善人。錯錯錯~恨錯難返，其他的就更不用說了。在大家一片驚厄、悔恨聲中，Mike Sun 大，一舉答對 6題，榮膺 7月份文生會爐主，Mike大將為我們帶來精彩的勃根地酒款，請大家拍拍手。