前言：文生會自進入勃根地後，不可避免地產生兩個問題，其一是勃根地難懂，勃根地以發揮風土條件為其特色，個別酒莊的釀酒師，解讀同一地塊又有不同看法，而使用不同的釀造方式，兩相加乘下，加上不同年份氣候的因素，造成勃根地多樣的風格，這是欲一窺勃根地堂奧的酒迷們，所不得不承受之重；另一個問題是，勃根地進入門檻高，雖然集合眾人之力來分攤花費，費用仍然動輒兩三千元，這可能也赫阻了大家的參與度，勃根地的酒莊規模小，葡萄園被過度分割，造成勃根地酒莊難以達到類似波爾多酒莊的規模經濟，生產成本高，酒價自然居高不下，這應該是完全無解的問題了，酒迷們恐怕只能努力工作，才能追上日漸高漲的酒價。

酒單：為了見見一些久違了的朋友，4月份文生會外會將回到波爾多，將花費門檻降低，以提高大家的參與度，會長找了庫存中，幾支價格相對低廉的 1995 Bordeaux 來與大家分享，目前手頭上的酒單如下：

1. 1995 Saint-Emilion GC Cru Classé Château Canon-la-Gaffelière NTD$2,400 WS:95, RP:91, Anticipated maturity: 2004-2020

2. 1995 Saint-Julien Château Saint Pierre NTD$1,900 WS:90, RP:89, Anticipated maturity: 2007-2011 

3. 1995 Saint-Estephe Château Calon Segur NTD$3,500 WS:96, RP:92, Anticipated maturity: 2005-2035 

4. 1995 Pauillac Château Pontet Canet NTD$1,900 (周大庫存) WS:94, RP:93, Anticipated maturity: 2005-2025

5. 1995 Pessac-Leognan Château Smith Haut Lafitte NTD$1,800 WS:93, RP:92, Anticipated maturity: 2001-2018

6. 1995 Margaux Château Malescot-St-Exupery NTD$2,100 WS:90, RP:90, Anticipated maturity: 2002-2018

預計是 6 支酒，目前募集到 6 支，希望手頭上有 Bordeaux 95 年份、價格優的朋友們，可以共襄盛舉(好處是不用擠著報名，哈哈！)，意者請將酒名、價格 mail to syc5@hotmail.com 給我，有比上列更好、價格優的酒，不排除換酒，敬請大家多多支持，謝謝。

番外加一

7. 1991 Pauillac Château Mouton -Rothschild NTD$3,999 WS: 89, RP:86

海盜酒

8. 2003 Cotes de Francs Château XX XXX NTD$1,500

這支海盜酒價格不高，卻是最近很有話題性的一支酒，Chris 兄費盡心思到手，大方地與朋友們分享。暫姑隱其名，不過聰明人應該猜的出來。先看看照片吧，是用臘封的喔！

酒名不能說，產區倒是可以來聊聊，Cotes de Francs (弗朗丘)位於右岸 Libournais (里布內)地區，介於 Cotes de Castillon (卡斯提雍丘)與 Saint-Emilion 之間，之前文生會還巡迴在 Bordeaux 產區時，我就有提到 Cotes de Castillon 與 Cotes de Francs 產區會是 Bordeaux 有潛力的新興產區 (詳見 http://blog.xuite.net/vc0110/life/18294596)，主要這個地區雨量少、地勢高、陽光充足(多是南向山坡)，讓此地 Melot 的酒質較 Saint-Emilion 為細緻，Cab、Cab Franc 熟成無虞架構分明，是個值得仔細挖寶的產區。

參考酒評：

1. 1995 Saint-Emilion GC Cru Classé Château Canon-la-Gaffelière

WS: Shows such wonderful clarity and class on the nose, with crushed raspberries, blackberries and just a hint of flowers. Full-bodied, with layers of ultrafine tannins and a long, long finish. Fantastic. Just coming around.--'95/'96 Bordeaux retrospective. Best after 2008. 7,500 cases made. JS Jan.31,2007

WA: A massive wine, with a cigar box, chocolatey, thick, black currant and cherry-scented nose, this full-bodied wine is crammed with layers of fruit, extract, glycerin, and alcohol. Spicy yet rich, with high tannin, the 1995 Canon-La-Gaffeliere will need a minimum of 5-6 years of cellaring. The finish is long and rich, and the tannin sweet rather than astringent. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2020.Apr.01,1998

2. 1995 Saint-Julien Château Saint Pierre

WS: Delicious, chewy wine with tobacco, chocolate and berry aromas and flavors. Full-bodied, with full, round tannins and a long, juicy aftertaste. Hard not to drink it now, but it will improve with age, probably best after 2000. (JS)Jan.31,1998

WA: The 1995 reveals an opaque purple color, as well as good fatness, low acidity, and a slight disjointedness. Rich and full, with that sweet, ripe finish so prevalent in the top 1995s, it cannot be easily dismissed. If the wine develops more personality and its mid-section fills out, it could easily merit a higher score. While it will be pleasant to drink young, it possesses the power and depth to last 12-16 years.

3. 1995 Saint-Estephe Château Calon Segur

WS: Incredible nose of crushed berries, flowers, spices and nuts. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a long, long finish. Powerful and solid. Builds on the palate. Give it time.--'95/'96 Bordeaux retrospective. Best after 2009. JS Jan.31,2007

WA: As I have said many times since I first tasted this wine, the 1995 Calon-Segur is one of the great sleepers of the vintage (I bought the wine as a future for a mere $250 a case). The wine has closed down completely since bottling, but it is a sensational effort that may ultimately merit an even higher score. The wine is opaque purple-colored. With coaxing, the tight aromatics reveal some weedy cassis intertwined with truffles, chocolate, and beef blood-like aromas. On the palate, there is an element of sur-maturite (1995 was an extremely late harvest at Calon-Segur), fabulous density and purity, and a boatload of tannin. This deep, broodingly backward, classic Bordeaux will require a decade of cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2035. Proprietor Madame Gasqueton (one of The Wine Advocate's heroines of 1997) has produced two unqualified back to back successes. Kudos to Calon-Segur, as both the 1995 and 1996 wines have a strong buy recommendation from me, but only for readers who have the patience to wait them out. Feb.01,1998

4. 1995 Pauillac Château Pontet Canet

WS: Fabulous nose of crushed currants, blackberries and forest flowers. Full-bodied, with plenty of ripe fruit and silky tannins. This is really holding back.--'95/'96 Bordeaux retrospective. Best after 2010. 23,000 cases made. JS Jan.31,2007

WA: An old style Pauillac, yet made with far more purity and richness than the estate's ancient vintages, this broad-shouldered, muscular, classic wine exhibits a saturated purple color, and sensationally dense, rich, concentrated, cassis flavors that roll over the palate with impressive purity and depth. The wine is tannic and closed, but powerful and rich. It appears to possess length and intensity similar to the 1996. This is a great young Pauillac. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2025. The extraordinary effort that Alfred Tesseron is making at this property is reconfirmed with each new tasting note I write on Pontet-Canet. Having recently had the exceptionally impressive 1994 in several tastings, it is a pleasure to see this historic estate turning out wines that behave like super seconds rather than fifth-growths. Feb.01,1998

5. 1995 Pessac-Leognan Château Smith Haut Lafitte

WS: Aromas of blackberries, with hints of cedar and fresh mushrooms. Full-bodied, with silky, firm tannins and a medium finish. Needs time still.--'95/'96 Bordeaux retrospective. Best after 2008. 9,100 cases made. JS Jan.31,2007

WA: This wine is already showing exceptionally well, even though it is not close to its plateau of maturity. The deep ruby/purple color is followed by scents of roasted herbs intermixed with sweet black currant fruit, truffles, vanillin, and minerals. Lush, with ripe cassis fruit on the attack, outstanding balance, medium body, and layers of intensity, this is an elegant, graceful, smoothly textured, beautifully made Bordeaux. Anticipated maturity: 2001-2018. Since the acquisition of this estate by the Cathiard family, this property has become one of Bordeaux's success stories, producing elegant, flavorful, complex, very complete wines.Feb.01,1998

6. 1995 Margaux Château Malescot-St-Exupery

WS: Plenty of plum and floral aromas, with hints of red licorice. Medium- to full-bodied, with fine tannins and a fresh, clean finish. Why wait?--'95/'96 Bordeaux retrospective. Drink now. JS Jan.31,2007

WA: This wine may merit an outstanding rating. It offers a classic Margaux combination of elegance and richness. Medium-bodied, with delicate, beautifully ripe, black currant and floral aromas that compete with subtle new oak, the 1995 Malescot hits the palate with a lovely concoction of fruit, nicely integrated tannin and acidity, and a stylish, graceful feel. This quintessentially elegant Bordeaux should continue to improve in the bottle. A beauty! Anticipated maturity: 2002-2018. Feb.01,1998

7. 1991 Pauillac Château Mouton -Rothschild

WS: Incredibly fine and subtle for the vintage with tobacco, black currant and berry aromas and flavors, medium body and a long flavorful, silky finish. Drink or hold. (JS) Mar.31,1994

WA: The 1991 exhibits a moderately dark ruby/purple color, as well as a promising and complex nose of such classic Pauillac aromas as lead pencil, roasted nuts, and ripe cassis. The initial richness is quickly obliterated by frightful levels of tannin, and a tough, hard finish. Although there is an interesting and alluring dimension to this wine, the tannin level is excessively high and the wine is likely to dry out after 10-15 years of cellaring. Readers who admire austere, fruitless wines will rate it higher.Feb.01,1994

人數與報名：預計人數 14 人，若報名踴躍，不排除開第二套酒，請大家注意後續酒單發佈與報名事宜。

費用：估計花費應該在 NTD$1,000 上下

時間：5月2日 2:00PM

地點：5號酒館

其他：未盡事宜陸續公佈

訂價理論：

C: Cost, P: Pricing, V: Value, V-P: Consumer Surplus, P-C: Profit Margin

自人類創造了交易制度及通貨以來，物品的價格一直 based on Cost, Supply & Demand，也就是所謂的供需理論，其現象如下：

When Cost ↑, Supply ↓, Demand ↑ → Pricing ↑

When Cost ↓, Supply ↑(規則經濟), Demand ↓ → Pricing ↓

當然還有很多的組合，造成不同的現象，但漸漸的，80~90年代之後，創新風潮造成新的市場現象，傳統的供需理論，已無法解釋市場現象，因而被漸漸揚棄，新的定價理論興起，也就是價值理論，其現象如下：

When V-P↑, then V↑ → Pricing ↑

V-P：Consumer Surplus 翻譯成中文為客戶剩餘，誰能創造最大的客戶剩餘，帶給客戶最大的商品價值，他們就能將 Pricing up，even Cost up，只要能在控制範圍，仍然能創造最大的 P-C，甚至也可反向操作，而有以下現象：

When C↑, → V↑, P↑, then → V-P↑

這是說投入更大成本，創造了更大的商品價值，價格提高，仍能創造最大的客戶剩餘。例如，勞斯萊思全車以手工打造，雖然成本因而提高，但它創造了 Unique 的商品價值，仍能採取高訂價，獲取高額利潤外，它也為客戶創造了 更大的客戶剩餘，達到雙贏的局面。至此，20世紀末期後的市場經營，價格不再跟供需掛勾，脫離了供需範疇，走向價值訂價的新思維。

看到勞絲萊思的例子，有沒有讓大家聯想到一些高價的勃根地紅酒呢？