09 台北地痞 vs 竹科新貴-後篇 @ Vincent Life

2009-03-12 12:48 09 台北地痞 vs 竹科新貴-後篇

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前言：由於不明原因，一直無法將文字資料，以純文字模式貼上部落格，只好另開一篇新的文章，來記錄及討論這次的品酒會。這次品酒會的遊戲規則與酒款，已於上篇說明，所以下篇將只記錄及討論這次品酒會酒款的年份、葡萄園土地及活動記實。

基於上次台北 vs 新竹 PK 賽時，台北隊賽前預習酒款，喝了與比賽酒款同酒莊、卻不同年份的酒，而造成 confusing 的前車之鑑，這次台北隊沒有事先預習酒款的打算。既然不能事先預習酒款，而大部份的酒款我都沒喝過的情況下，面對最能表現 terroir 精神的 Burgendy 酒款，只好從酒評、年份報導及葡萄園所在地，去分析、尋找酒款的一些蛛絲馬跡，以下就是我所做的一些功課及分析，或可為欲一窺 Burgendy 佳釀的朋友們，開啟一點小門縫。

酒評：

Armand Rousseau Ruchottes-Chambertin Clos des Ruchottes 1996
WS: 87
Nice, delicate red Burgundy, medium in body, showing pretty cherry, raspberry, vanilla, chocolate and green olive notes. Complex, but not very opulent. Drink now through 2003. 508 cases made. (PM) 30-Sep-98

Alex Gambal Clos Vougeot 1999
WS: 88
Supple berry and spice cake flavors, with lively acidity. Medium-weight, stylish finish. Drink now through 2004. 75 cases made. (JM) 28-Feb-02

Domaine des Perdrix Echezeaux 1996
WS: 82
Ultrathick and ultradark, full-bodied and very ripe, showing plum, oak, vanilla, toasted bread, mocha and currant accents. Not so classy, but it's a mouthful of a wine, with loads of firm tannins. From Bertrand Devillard of Antonin Rodet. Best after 2005. (PM) 30-Sep-98

Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges Les Roncieres 1999
WA: 88-90
'This fresh, crunchy, medium-bodied wine has a lively, zesty, cherry and candied orange rind-flavored personality. It is well-structured, harmonious, and long.'
The healthy, ruby-colored 1999 Nuits-St.-Georges displays ripe berry aromas. It is light to medium-bodied and has excellent depth of fruit. Loads of sweet, silky-textured raspberries, blueberries, cherries, currants, and strawberries can be found throughout its harmonious personality as well as in its long, fresh, and candied finish. It is one of the finest village appellation wines I have tasted from Nuits-St.-Georges. Drink it over the next 5 years. Robert Paker

Demure black fruits make up the nose of the medium to dark ruby-colored 1999 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Roncieres. This fresh, crunchy, medium-bodied wine has a lively, zesty, cherry and candied orange rind-flavored personality. It is well-structured, harmonious, and long. Drink it over the next 7 years. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524. Jun-01, 2001
Tanzer:87-90
'Very spicy aromas of red fruits and cinnamon, along with a floral topnote. Lively flavors of red berries and spices; good density and firm structure. Finishes with firm tannins and very good length.'

Clos du Fonteny 1er, Gevrey Chambertin, Domaine Bruno Clair, 1999
Tanzer: 86-89
01 Apr 2001 Deep red-ruby. Sappy, pure, cool aromas

1999 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru, Louis Jadot
By John Kapon
Vintage Tastings, The Romanee St. Vivant Marathon (2/6/2005)
(Romanee St. Vivant Jadot) The fourth wine of this flight had more vanilla, oak and caramel(焦糖) in the nose; it was very modern but still intoxicating. There was a bruised meat character with great earth and complex black fruits, lemon tea cake and even a drop of honey. The palate was spicy, still feminine with good balance; long, silky and acid -laden on the finish (in a subtle and soft way). 93 points

1996 Grands Echezeaux Grand Cru, Gros Frere & Soeur
WS: 89
Supple and soft, like silk, with cranberry, cassis and wild strawberry notes, this ripe wine shows a lovely sweetness on the palate and a balanced finish laced with subtle oak and milk chocolate. Best from 2003 through 2012. 15-May-99

CT: 89
My #3; dark red violet with pale meniscus; tart red fruit and cherry nose; tart red fruit, cherry and mineral palate; medium finish

1996 Richebourg Grand Cru, Gros Frere & Soeur
WS: 95
Exciting, invading the senses with the most seductive red- and blackberry and spiced-up toasted oak imaginable, this full-bodied, rich wine melts like cream, with the long draw of a fine cigar. Burgundy's Cohiba. Best from 2005 through 2015. 15-May-99
BG: 93
Pronounced aromas of earth, underbrush(樹林內的/下層林叢) and wet leaves merge seamlessly into subtly complex, beautiful flavors of unusual finesse. This is not especially dense but it offers superb definition and outstanding finishing complexity. Perhaps the finest Richebourg the Domaine has produced since the vines were replanted in 1985 and 1989.

1999 Robert Chevillon Nuits-St.-Georges Les Pruliers
WA: 90-93
The dark ruby-colored 1999 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Pruliers exhibits blackberry and licorice aromas. Medium to full-bodied and chewy, it exhibits jammy blackberry, cassis liqueur, and freshly laid road tar flavors. It is thick and dense, yet zesty and fresh. It possesses copious quantities of ripe, structure-giving tannin. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2012. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524 Jun-01, 2001

1999 Robert Chevillon Nuits-St.-Georges Les Roncieres
WA: 88-90
Demure black fruits make up the nose of the medium to dark ruby-colored 1999 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Roncieres. This fresh, crunchy, medium-bodied wine has a lively, zesty, cherry and candied orange rind-flavored personality. It is well-structured, harmonious, and long. Drink it over the next 7 years. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524. Jun-01, 2001

年份報導：

VINTAGE INFO 1996:
Critically lauded for both the red and white wines on release. Both colours were high in acidity, but the concentration of fruit seemed equal to the challenge, however, many lower appellation whites were never nice.
Today, many reds are showing some development to the aromatics, but most, including the majority of nice whites are still far from mature. Those that have the fruit concentration are anyway very tasty, those that haven't are disappointingly acidic and have little else about them - There are some problems with premature oxidation noted with the whites. Jan.2006

1996 Very Good, though a little in the shadow of 95 in reds when first released. The wines are medium structure, earlier drinking than 95, (and a lot beefier than 97, though not quite as initially charming). The 96 reds are holding up very well, and I imagine that people will continue to be surprised how well they compare to the great 95s for many years to come. Top wines will be emerging form a closed phase now-ish.
White Beaunes are superb, concentrated and mineral, as the cool harvest conditions helped to conserve acidity. VG for long term aging, so begin to drink now or keep.
A truly great Chablis year. Regular Chablis should still be drinking well and the Grand Crus and top 1er Crus are just coming right. The acidity is beginning to fall away revealing beautiful flavours. (Wine Doctor)

VINTAGE INFO 1999:
A very expensive release for followers of 'Burgundy'...
Little to say; despite the high yields, it was a very good year for whites and we hope (given the quantity of bottles in my cellar) one of the best for a generation in reds - unusually from both Côtes.
The wines are balanced with uncommon but not excessive density to match the fine acidity.
From the better producers the wines can be magnificent, though granted, from the less 'exigent' producers some can appear a little dilute due to the aforementioned high yields. Jan.2006

1999 A large crop saved from being unripe following the cold August by a hot early September, then let down again by rain during harvest. Some of my favourite domaines, who are diligent relatively early pickers, will have missed most of the rain. However taking the region as a whole there is the danger of dilution, though fortunately not of bad flavours from rot. The reds seem attractive and certainly had early charm. Everyone says they will age very well. Maybe.
White Côte de Beaunes were pretty good.
Chablis slightly under performed. (Wine Doctor)

葡萄園：

圖中黃色線條圈示的是 Ruchottes-Chambertin 特級園，綠色的是 Clos du Fonteny 一級園。這兩個位於 Gevrey-Chambertin 村的葡萄園，我花了些心思去研究它們，一來是因為這是新竹隊開出的酒款中，唯二產區重疊的酒款，二來是因為這兩個園相鄰，主觀上會認為它們容易混淆，事實上加以分析後，又不是那麼回事了。

一般談到 Gevrey-Chambertin 的 Pinot Noir 風格，多用雄偉結實、色深多單寧、口感嚴謹...等來表現，在 Gevrey-Chambertin 9個特級園中，大部份也呈現上述風格。這些特級園多位於海拔 260~290m 左右，坡度和緩的中至中上坡，事實上，Burgendy 夜丘的特級園，大部份也都位於這條細帶上，然而 Ruchottes-Chambertin 位於海拔 290~315m 左右的中上至上坡處，而且葡萄園的坡度非常陡峭(從等高線來判斷)，這樣的地理位置特徵是，排水良好(相對在乾旱年份容易缺水)、土層稀薄(因為雨水沖刷)、土壤貧瘠(以石灰岩塊及風化之砂石為主)，光從這樣的描述，不難想像 Ruchottes-Chambertin 特級園在大部份年份的表現，會是一個骨感的美女 - 細緻、線條清楚、中度酒體，少一分豐腴但骨架分明。

相對的，Clos du Fonteny 一級園位於海拔 270~290m 左右，坡度相對和緩的多，風格想必比 Ruchottes-Chambertin 特級園豐腴的多，它唯一的問題是位於東北向坡，年份會是左右它風格的重要原因。

從酒倒入酒杯中呈現的色澤、在杯中搖晃淚腳的流動速度，我判斷第 4 杯就是 Ruchottes-Chambertin 特級園，加上 Chilli 狗鼻子之助，讓我更加肯定這個答案。

嗯~ 若要用一個人來形容這支酒，應該就是「莎翁情史」裡的 Gwyneth Paltrow 吧？

Romanée-Saint-Vivant、Richebourg、Grands Echezeaux 等 3 個位於 Vonse-Romanee 村的特級園，在上圖中標示為綠色，Romanée-Saint-Vivant 與 Richebourg 為東南向坡，Grands Echezeaux 為東向坡。

Louis Jadot 在 Vonse-Romanee 村的自有葡萄園有 Aux Jachees (Village)、 Derriere le Four(一般葡萄園，連村莊級都不是)、la Croix Rameau (1er Cru，在Romanée-Saint-Vivant 下坡處)、Au Dessus des Malconsorts(Village)、Les Gaudichots(1er Cru 在 La Grande Rue 旁與之平行)等5個，按並未擁有 Romanée-Saint-Vivant 的任何地塊，推測該酒廠的 Romanée-Saint-Vivant 釀酒葡萄是收購來的，而且極可能接近 la Croix Rameau 1er Cru 附近，比較怪的是，查不到 Louis Jadot 有 Croix Rameau 1er 的產品與酒評。

若推測正確，以地理條件來看，Richebourg 與 Romanée-Saint-Vivant 酒質接近，不過 Richebourg 應該較豐厚些、Full Bodies 酒體，而 Romanée-Saint-Vivant 應該較細緻、女性化，中高酒體(接近城鎮排水稍差)，只是 Louis Jadot 的葡萄倒底來自何處？上節完全是推測，若 Louis Jadot Romanée-Saint-Vivant 葡萄來自於更上坡，恐怕不易區分。

另一個區分方式就是釀酒風格了，按之前 T大的說法，葛羅兄妹園在 1996 年購入逆滲透機，用以濃縮葡萄汁，96 Richebourg 應該是第一個試金石，或可從此參出些端倪。

回到現實的品酒會場，這三個特級園都被挑中了(新竹隊很厲害，矇著瓶都可以把 3 支特級園都挑走)，而台北隊也未能將之完全 identify 出來，我自己的答案，第二杯是選 Richebourg，不過我毫無把握，也就不堅持，以大家的答案為準，答案揭曉，也就沒什麼好可惜。

Nuits-St-Georges 的這兩個一級園，雖然都沒有被挑中，但基於「撞酒」的機緣，在此也做些說明。Nuits-St-Georges 是夜丘最大的城市，很多夜丘有名的酒莊，都將大本營設於此地，令人意外地，Nuits-St-Georges 雖然有 41 個一級園，但並沒有任何的特級園。一般對 Nuits-St-Georges 酒的印象是堅硬、厚實、強烈、高單寧、結構緊密，是一需時間來馴服的酒款。事實上，因地塊的差異，Nuits-St-Georges 酒還是可以區分出許多不同的風格。城北至 Vonse-Romanee 村交界處，有較多之花果香，風格較為輕柔；城南至 Premeaux-Prissey 村交界處，則為傳統 NSG 的大本營，強硬、充滿野味；再往南到 Premeaux-Prissey 村附近所產的紅酒，也是以 NSG 為名來銷售，則又稍轉柔軟，介於城南與城北之間，風格類似 Chambertin。

Nuits-St-Georges 的多變風格，一般初入門的酒友常常很困惑，城南城北常常搞不清楚。事實上，從地圖上來看，卻是一目了然，城北與城南的山坡，是由 la Meuzin 河切割出來的兩個不同丘陵地，城北的丘陵，與 Vonse-Romanee 村是相同的山體，風格類似 Vonse-Romanee 自是不難想像。以此類推，城南與 Premeaux-Prissey 村附近的丘陵地，也是不同的山體，兩座山的交界，剛好就在兩村的村界處。

Les Roncieres 與 Les Pruliers 都位於城南又相鄰，若都入選，只怕是難以區分，不過我建議的酒單是 aux Boudots 或 la Damodes，這兩個一級園與 Vonse-Romanee 村接壤，風格上最接近 Vonse-Romanee 村，具有相當的混淆效果。不過只怕還沒害到新竹隊，就先害到自己，哈哈！

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