文生會外會之1995 CNDP頂級酒品嘗會精華再現
前言：最近看了一篇文章，文章的內容是什麼並不是那麼地重要，重要的是這篇文章觸動了我記憶的某個小角落，讓原本滿佈灰塵的一段回憶，鮮明地在腦海中開始跳躍。其中有一小段是跟葡萄酒有關，讓我憶起我是何時開始喝葡萄酒。那是國三的寒假，學校舉辦了畢業旅行，行程是從基隆坐花蓮輪，到花蓮後捨船就車，遊太魯閣、天祥後取道中橫霧社支線，順遊日月潭後由南投回台北。一路上的山光水色並不是重點，重點在途中，國中時代的死黨，帶了一瓶自家釀的葡萄酒(嚴格說起來是葡萄口味的水果酒)，我倆就一路上偷偷摸摸地喝將起來，或許是為了叛逆的快感，或許是為了成長的印記(就像抽煙一樣)，更或許是為了那微甜的醺然，我愛上了這種帶有酒精的飲料，在旅程的歸途之後。

回到家中後，我煞有其事地準備釀起葡萄酒來，在圖書館找到一本跟釀酒扯上一點邊的書，猛K一頓後，開始了我有生以來第一次的釀酒之旅。該準備的器具、材料一應俱全：甕、塑膠袋、橡皮筋(用來封口)、葡萄、白砂糖、米酒頭‧‧‧，我還額外準備了兩樣祕密武器，其一是一瓶蜂蜜，想說可以幫酒添加一些風味；其二是酵母菌，因為書上說糖加上酵母菌，會產生酒精加上二氧化碳，以土象星座實事求是的個性，酵母菌是絕對不能少的。問題是去那邊生酵母菌？我可管不了釀酒是不是要特別的酵母菌，反正隔壁柑仔店有賣發麵粉用的酵母菌。「總是酵母菌吧？應該作用大同小異吧？」我心裡暗暗地思量，一股腦地把所有準備的材料，塞進我準備的器具裏，封起來後就把它丟在菜櫥仔的角落。

總是少年心性吧？幾個禮拜後我忍不住要看一下我傑作的「進度」，我把封口的塑膠袋拆開，一陣嗆鼻的酒氣湧出，咦！酒真的在冒泡，葡萄還全部浮在酒液上呢！沒多做思考，一個直覺的反應，拿起一把大木杓，把浮在酒液上的葡萄，一一的壓入酒液中(這應該算是踩皮吧？或許，我天生就是一個釀酒師，哈哈！)。差不多是一年多後，我才又打開這一甕酒，印象當中褐色的酒液懸浮著葡萄纖維，入口竟然沒有原本意料中的甜味，倒有一股強烈的烈勁，延著食道燒到了胃部。此後，這一甕酒伴我渡過幾許青澀歲月，我沒有一口氣把它喝光，之後我將它過濾澄清，分裝在當時公賣局竹葉青的瓷瓶裏，用軟木塞塞住瓶口，然後丟在房間的一角，任灰塵為它妝點歲月。

這幾瓶酒靜靜地躺在房間的一角，時間的流動仿佛與它無關，當初釀造它的人，從青澀的少年變成初出社會的衝動青年，忌惡如仇看什麼都不順眼，顛撲吃虧自然就不可免。而酒，仍然只是酒，外表看不出它的變化，也沒有人去關心它的變化，它只是靜靜地、靜靜地躺著。

有一天這幾瓶酒被翻出來了，經過了將近15年的歲月，被另外一個釣魚的死黨翻出來。瓶塞一開，濃郁的酒香四溢，一下子填充了房間每一個空白，我們拿著喝茶的白色瓷杯，小心翌翌地把酒倒出。喔！在燈下酒面閃著晶亮的亮光，酒色是澄澈的金黃琥珀色，入口後沒有任何突兀地順到五臟廟，口中一直殘留著酒香。如今回想起來，雖然無法明確描述那是什麼樣的香氣，但那香氣卻好像一股熟悉的味道在口中鼻息間昇起。

我嘗想....品酒是不是也是這樣的歷程？初時的酒精，封鎖我們受制約的理性，沉淪於微醺的感觀，放縱生物性本質的自我。其後是知性的層次，視覺、嗅覺、味覺共同演繹出一首交響詩，而知識更像是輔助的樂譜。最後在歲月的洗練下，昇華到藝術與審美的靈魂，喚醒我們沉睡的美麗經驗與記憶，融化我們冷漠疏離的心，再次充滿喜悅的感動。而一瓶有生命的葡萄酒，不也是在經歷這樣的過程嗎！

主題說明：過去幾次文生會喝到的 CNDP，都像是青澀的少年，這次PK幫我們找到幾瓶頂尖酒廠，95年份的 CNDP，作為二月文生會外會的主題，看是否能幫我們尋回歲月淬練後的感動，PK會幫大家做好 Proposal，請自行注意報名時間。

PK Proposal 如下：

楔子：2000/2/27與一些酒友做了一次Chateauneuf-du-Pape 頂級酒品嘗會......耐心即是美德，希望十年後能再次品嘗。(摘自St. T大之葡萄酒漫談)

原文：http://mypaper.pchome.com.tw/news/thomaschan/3/223320/20010416204909/

九年間物換星移，酒價飛漲，景氣寒冬之際我們仍然熱血地張羅到四支1995 CNDP的頂級酒款，讓文生會友們也能藉由部分精華酒款一窺前人們的論酒風範。 

時間：2009年2月27+1日(星期六) PM2:00

地點：視最後確認之報名人數安排，人數十位左右的話就在Casa PK 舉辦

酒款：

1995 Chateau Rayas CNDP (Parker's: 99) 17,783 NTD

1995 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe CNDP (Parker's: 93) 4,703 NTD

1995 Chateau Beaucastel CNDP (Parker's: 93) 3,816 NTD

1995 Clos des Papes CNDP (Parker's: 94) 3,863 NTD

共30,165 NTD，酒分十份，想分酒的人請自行尋找願意配對者。

酒評/酒莊簡介： 

1995 Chateau Rayas (Parker's: 99) 10ha (公頃)

A tiny crop of only 12-15 hectoliters per hectare, and less than 1,000 cases have made this one of the rarest, most difficult to obtain Rayas vintages. While the 1995 is evolving beautifully, it is not yet ready for prime time drinking. The color remains a dense ruby with purple nuances. The wine has that degree of over-ripeness allied to opulence, and a sumptuous texture that make this wine so striking. Notes of kirsch liqueur, black raspberries, minerals, spice, and flowers can be found in this exceptionally full-bodied, powerful, layered wine. Despite its massiveness, there is a sense of elegance, delineation, and balance. The abundant tannin has become sweeter and better integrated. This is certainly a complete and long-lived Rayas and should be uncommonly ageworthy. (06/ 2000)

The 1995 is spectacular. When Emmanuel Reynaud said it was evolving quickly, in essence repudiating this vintage, I immediately drank two bottles of this glorious elixir. It does not reveal the over-ripeness of the 1990, bringing to mind a hypothetical blend of the great 1989 and 1978. Deeply-colored and still young, with black currant/creme de cassis-like characteristics, huge body, yet great structure and delineation, this is a classic Rayas that is totally different than the 1990. It should continue to improve in the bottle and may merit an even higher score. While it can be drunk now, it will be even better with 3-4 years of cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2020. (01/ 2003)

100% Grenache 

1995 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe (Parker's: 93) 67.38ha (公頃)

Limited quantities of the 1994 and 1995 Hippolyte were produced from equal portions of Grenache, Mourvedre, and Syrah. Both are interesting wines, but will probably only be tasted by members of the wine trade who purchase Vieux-Telegraphe, or writers who visit the estate. The 1995, which is less austere than the 1994, reveals huge tannin, but fabulous concentration, full body, and remarkable power and structure. In contrast to the regular cuvee, it is more backward and dominated by Mourvedre and Syrah. For drinking over the next 10-15 years, I actually prefer the estate's classic cuvee of Chateauneuf du Pape. Both vintages of Hippolyte will require 5-8 years of cellaring, as both are less flattering and precocious than Vieux-Telegraphe classic Chateauneuf du Pape. (10/1997)

Grenache 65%，Mourvedre 15%，Syrah 15%，Cinsault and sundry others 5%。

1995 Chateau Beaucastel (Parker's: 93) 80ha (公頃)

The classic 1995 Chateauneuf du Pape will require discipline. Like most top vintages of Beaucastel, a decade of patience will be warranted before this wine will be enjoyable to drink. Given how tight and closed the 1993 and 1994 are, it is the rare vintage of Beaucastel (1989, 1990, and 1995) that is accessible in its youth, yet they will remain capable of aging for 20-25 years. In some ways, proprietors Francois and Jean-Pierre Perrin might be accused of trying to make the wine too long-lived, as if this is the primary merit to a great red wine. The 1995 will have three decades of longevity, but it will not be approachable before 2006. It exhibits a deep dark ruby/purple color, and a provocative (probably controversial) aromatic profile of animal fur, tar, truffles, black cherries, cassis, licorice, and minerals. A medium to full-bodied wine, with a boatload of tannin, considerable grip and structure, and a weighty feel in the mouth, this appears to be a classic vin de garde made in the style of the 1978 Beaucastel (which is still not close to full maturity). Prospective purchasers over the age of forty should be buying this wine for their children. (10/97)

Deep ruby colour with bright red tinges. The nose is intense and complex, still a little austere but with great concentration. It shows black fruits, cherries and olives, liquorice and a hint of leather. The mouth is round and fleshy, well structured.

The tannins are dense and still tight and the finish is powerful and long. (Beaucastel)

Mourvedre、Grenache 30%，Syrah 10%，Counoise 10%，Cinsault 5%，Vaccarese、Terret Noir、Muscardin、Picpoul、Picardan、Bourboulenc、Roussanne、Clairette。

1995 Clos des Papes (Parker's: 94) 32ha (公頃)

I have tasted the terrific 1995 Chateauneuf du Pape five times since bottling, and it gets better with each tasting, with one exception. A bottle purchased from a retailer who had bought it in the grey market tasted decidedly less intense. Whether it was a different cuvee from Europe or just an off bottle, I do not know. I am still convinced it is as profound as the 1990, and possibly the best wine made at this estate since the 1978. It possesses a saturated ruby/purple color, as well as a sensational nose of pepper, roasted herbs, smoked meats, cassis, and black cherries. On the palate, this backward wine displays layers of concentrated ripe fruit, with enough acidity and tannin to provide definition. This is an extraordinary, powerful, intensely-flavored Chateauneuf du Pape with awesome aging potential. It will be delicious after another 2-3 years of bottle age, and should keep for 20 years. Wow!  This extraordinary estate is enjoying an even higher level of quality now that proprietor Paul Avril has the full-time assistance of his son, Vincent. Most Clos des Papes require some aging as there has been a tendency over the last decade to increase the percentage of Mourvedre (now about 20%) in the final blend. (10/1997)

32 ha. 3 ha. is with white varieties. 24 different parcels are spread around the town. 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre, 10% Syrah and 5% others. The yield is only about 25 hl/ha. Aged in foudres for about one year - a part in barriques.

圖說：教皇新堡地層與地質剖面圖

A: Coudoulet, Beaucastel.

B: Le Rayas, Rayas.

C: Le Clos, Clos des Papes.

D: La Crau, Vieux Telegraphe. 

	Chateau Rayas	V. Telegraphe	Ch. Beaucastel	Clos des Papes
面積(ha)	10	67.38	80	32
hl/ha	15-20		30	25
土壤	沙質地混合黏土，沒有圓形大卵石	在厚實，含高比例石頭的黏土層上方的是1至1.5公尺厚中新世時期的磨礫岩，表層覆蓋Galets圓形大卵石	中新世時期 (Miocene Period) 海洋磨礫岩層和覆蓋表面的阿爾卑斯山沖積層 (當地人稱為Galets的圓形大卵石)
品種	Grenache 100%	Grenache 65% Mourvedre 15% Syrah 15% Cinsault and Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc Roussanne Clairette	Grenache 30% Mourvedre 30% Syrah 10%  Counoise 10% Cinsault 5%  And  Vaccarese、 Terret Noir、Muscardin、Picpoul、Picardan、Bourboulenc、Roussanne、Clairette	Grenache 65%  Mourvedre 20%  Syrah      10% And Counoise  Cinsault  Vaccarese、 Terret Noir、Muscardin、Picpoul、Picardan、Bourboulenc、Roussanne、Clairette
釀造	沒有大卵石，葡萄園朝向北方接受密斯特拉冷風，極盡地延緩熟成速度。但使用老樹，超低產量，並且晚採收，常常到十一月才收成。(或許要到梗也成熟)沒有不鏽鋼槽，沒有溫控設備，沒有新橡木桶。	二次挑選並選擇性去梗後在有溫控裝置的不鏽鋼槽進行15-20天的傳統發酵。接著壓榨，完整的乳酸發酵。	攝氏80度的溫度下對葡萄皮略為加熱，然後置於攝氏20度下冷卻，然後將整串葡萄放入陶瓷支起的酒缸內浸泡12天。Syrah 在8000公升大橡木桶中發酵並培養，Grenache 在水泥發酵槽發酵並培養，再調配
去梗與否	不去梗	Selective destemming	全去梗	依年份調比例
橡木桶	老舊的各種大小橡木桶。	最初的9個月在混凝土槽中熟成。然後在50hl-70hl的大型橡木桶里熟成8至12個月。未過濾即裝瓶，收成2年後出廠。	40 hl/1000 gal. 的大橡木桶內存放一年。蛋白澄清後裝瓶。在瓶中熟成一年後才出廠。	大橡木桶一年熟成。

議題：

1. 什麼才是Chateauneuf-du-Papa的傳統風味? 是Grenache的風味? 是十三種葡萄的調和? 還是逐年增加的，帶有厚實野性的Mourvedre? (是因為溫室效應讓Mourvedre成熟的條件增加，還是全球化口味偏好的驅使??)

2. 留梗? 或是 去梗?

3. 水泥發酵槽、不鏽鋼溫控發酵槽、還有大型橡木發酵槽，影響的變因有哪些?

4. 單一品種與多品種調配葡萄酒的優缺點，及特性是什麼?

5. 加入白葡萄一起釀造的好處? 釀造後才調配白葡萄酒的好處? 以及案例?

6. 橡木桶熟成在教皇新堡產區所扮演的角色?

7. 最重要的一個: 這些酒與九年前的差異在哪裡勒???

(請大家幫忙修正填補錯誤或是闕漏的資訊)

活動記實

照片後補(沒帶照相機)

酒評

1995 Chateau Rayas CNDP Rayas

95 Rayas 是今天最令我最驚奇的一支酒，我原本一直在懷疑她的身份，因為 Rayas 的釀酒哲學是崇尚「自然」，不用花巧的技術，既不低溫浸泡，也不控制釀造溫度，加上 100% 的 Grenache，都使 Rayas 酒色較同產區其他酒款為淡，過去喝過幾次 Rayas 的經驗，酒色也都非常淡。但今天的 Rayas 酒色是紅寶石色，與另外三支 95年的 CNDP 相比，顏色完全不現老態，加上一些元素四散，一開始實在喝不出個所以然來，5~6 點在 Sam 那兒，順便考一考 Sam 兄及竹科的周兄，大家仍是一頭霧水，回到家吃完飯，將近 10 點再喝，神奇的事發生了，原本四散的元素漸漸凝聚，開始出現一些熟悉的味道，然後每隔幾分鐘就變化，陸續出現黑李、黑莓漿果、櫻桃、花香(不知名)、蜜香、紫蘇莓、奶油.....，目前已超過 11:40，她仍在變化，連我家不懂葡萄酒只懂乾杯的番婆，都為她的香味所著迷，95 Rayas 真是一位風情萬種的千變女郎啊！我也不得不佩服，Robert Paker 評隆河酒，確實是真有一套，而這支年輕、生命力旺盛的 95 Rayas，相信未來將成為一支經典的酒。

1995 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe CNDP

95 Vieux Telegraphe 一開始有悶悶地潮濕味，之後變成中藥味、毛皮味，然後是莓果味、幽雅的黑李香，後段沒太多變化，但香味一直持續著，酒體也不見衰退，續航力不錯。

1995 Chateau Beaucastel CNDP

後段以花香及蜜香為主。

1995 Clos des Papes

我各人圈選的第二名(待續)