波爾多的試煉 @ 葡萄酒新手選

2009-06-03 15:54 波爾多的試煉

?2010 小聚文章好文轉寄

五月的某日巧遇一群愛酒的朋友, 恰好酒癮來犯, 大家聊天打屁搬弄是非, 好不快樂, 其中大部份都是波爾多酒.

1986 Chateau Pape Clement
2001 Chateau d’Armailhac
2002 Chateau l’Hermitage
2005 Chateau Dauzac
2005 Chateau Cantemerle
2006 Carruades de Lafite
1999 Falesco, Montiano
2000 Pegau, Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee Reservee
The Yamazaki Sherry Cask 山崎
The Glenlivet 18yo

1986 Chateau Pape Clement
第二次喝這支酒, 香氣比第一次感覺更老態一些, 不過酒體仍非常強壯, 腐葉, 松露, 石墨, 咖啡, 礦石, 藥草, 多肉柔美的黑莓果, 奶油與濕紙板等, 酒體架構還很好, 稍微甜美的酒體, 頗好喝.
WA 91
The 1986 is a remarkable wine, which is amazing given the fact that this vineyard was inundated during the severe rainstorms prior to the harvest. No doubt a very strict selection resulted in only the later-picked grapes going into the 1986. It has a stylish black currant-and-mineral-scented bouquet backed up nicely by spicy new oak. The wine is deep ruby/purple in color, medium bodied, with excellent ripeness and richness. It is not a blockbuster, but it does have a beautifully crafted, graceful texture, and a long, stylish finish. It is undoubtedly the finest wine produced at this beautiful estate in Pessac between 1961 and 1988. Anticipated maturity: Now-2008.

2001 Chateau d’Armailhac
甘草, 杉木, 甜美的黑加崙, 巧克力等, 口感有點鹹, 果實, 結構稍軟, 現在就可以喝了, 酸度突出且尾韻有些spicy, 單寧稍微粗澀些, 這些感覺是很典型的單人舞沒錯.
WA 89
Medium deep ruby/purple-colored with a sweet perfume of cedar wood, chocolate, oak, and black currants, this medium-bodied, attractive, soft Pauillac is ideal for drinking now and over the next 12-13 years.

2002 Chateau l’Hermitage
甜香草, 木桶, 集中的黑加崙甜美, 杉木, 香精氣息, 酒體柔軟稍甜美, 結構尚好, 討喜易飲, 平衡度頗佳, 有自然而舒服的酸度, 單寧多而足, 尾韻長度是短了些, 不過仍然不減他的風韻, 頗好喝.
WA 89
An up-front, forward, successful 2002 from the right bank, l’Hermitage exhibits abundant amounts of black cherry fruit interwoven with hints of espresso roast and chocolate. Lush, ripe, and low in acidity, this pretty, supple 2002 will drink well for 7-8 years.

2005 Chateau Dauzac
細甜莓果, cassis, 甘草, 現在喝起來有點悶, 是略新派的酒體, 甜奶油香, 口感甜度明顯, 酒體濃而集中, 有粉粉的柔感, 酒體醒了許久仍未打開, 單寧有小小的顆粒, 2005年果然表現比其他年份更好.
WA 91
The issue I had with this wine’s rusticity and high tannin level in barrel has been resolved. There is no doubting its serious concentration, dense ruby/purple color, and attractive aromatics (blackberries, cassis, creosote, spring flowers, and licorice). It offers plenty of body and concentration as well as relatively high tannins. While impressively structured and backward, the finish reveals sweet yet powerful tannins. The finest Dauzac ever made, it should be at its peak between 2016-2030.

2005 Chateau Cantemerle
柔香的莓果, 微單調, 杉木, 李子, 石頭, 結構尚可, 是一支現在就可以大口喝的酒, 單寧表現尚可, 略多可感, 但不刺激.
WA 90
Cantemerle’s new proprietors believe in producing delicate, beautifully wrought, finesse-styled wines that require some introspection. The deep ruby-hued 2005 displays aromas of licorice, roasted herbs, sweet cherries, and flowers. In the mouth, the wine seems almost light in comparison to its peers, but it possesses an ethereal seriousness, purity, and overall harmony that are striking for its delicacy and finesse. A blend of 61% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest primarily Merlot with a tiny dollop of Cabernet Franc, it should be at its finest between 2012-2025+.

2006 Carruades de Lafite
雖然有用醒酒瓶, 但一小時候到入杯中仍是很悶的香氣, 甘草, 甜李子, 甘油, 柑桔香, 碳燒等等, 香氣很節制, 酒體顆粒細緻, 口中果實感多, 酒質集中, 微甜口感, 酸度表現不錯, 喝起來稍微有生澀葡萄的感覺, 現在喝實在太過年輕, 單寧強勁到有點刮舌, 但可以被時間所解決.
WA 90
The second wine, which has soared in quality over the last decade, is an outstanding effort displaying a character similar to that of Lafite, without the size, depth, and aging potential of that wine. The 2006 Carruades de Lafite offers up aromas of graphite, cedar, black currants, sweet cherries, and smoky herbs. This complex, more evolved, medium-bodied, silky-textured, sexy offering will provide plenty of pleasure over the next 15+ years.

1999 Falesco, Montiano
果香, 礦石, 微等調, 薄荷, 奶油, 巧克力, 一點鹼感, 口感甜柔, 有粉感的顆粒, 結構不錯, 這支酒現在正開始熟成而已, 倒入杯中三十幾分鐘後更顯酒體融合, 酒體會更柔軟, 單寧不錯且多, 感覺做的很用心的酒, 100% Merlot釀造, 不過說實在我實在不太喝的出來義大利的Merlot.
WA 95
The profound, dense ruby/purple-colored 1999 Montiano (2,500 cases of 100% Merlot aged in 100% new French oak, and bottled unfined and unfiltered) offers a smorgasbord of aromas, including melted chocolate, espresso, blackberries, cherries, currants, and smoke. Full-bodied, with terrific purity, a multilayered texture, and surprising freshness for a wine of such depth, it can be drunk young, or cellared for 10-15 years. For technicians who care about such things, it has a whopping 37 grams per liter of dry extract.

2000 Pegau, Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee Reservee
果香, 一點菸草, 一點皮毛, 稍微的肉感, 香氣一點都不辛辣, 終於見識到年輕Pegau應該有的感覺, 醒酒一點有更多皮毛與甘草氣息, 口感稍甜, 酸度有不錯的支撐, 結構非常好的酒, 酒體容易親近, 喝起來很順口, 沒有太多菱角, 單寧多且細緻, 現在喝是過早了, 但真的很好喝.
WA 95
The 2000 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Reservee may be one of the few 2000s that is better than its 1998 counterpart. A deep ruby/purple color is accompanied by sweet aromas of creme de cassis, kirsch liqueur, cedar, licorice, and pepper. It smells like an open-air Provencal market. Sweet, fat, opulent, and voluptuous, with fabulous fruit concentration, sweet tannin, and a long, 45+ second finish, this powerful, deep, seamless 2000 is impeccably well-balanced. A tour de force in traditional Chateauneuf du Pape, it is accessible now, but should age easily for 15-20 years.