葡萄酒新手選

1998年的教皇新堡, 一個非常偉大的好年份, 現在正開始好喝, 今天喝的酒都是當地的佼佼者, 搭配一瓶海盜酒, 北隆的小教堂, 另還有一瓶非常有搗亂力的加碼酒, 多了許多寶貴經驗.

1998 Domaine de la Janasse Chateauneuf-du-Pape
1998 Chateau la Nerthe Chateauneuf-du-Pape “Cuvee des Cadettes”
1998 Domaine du Pagau Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee Reservee
1998 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle
1998 Chateau Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape
1998 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape

加碼酒:
2004 Trapiche Vina Carlos Gei Berra Single Vineyard Malbec

1998 Domaine de la Janasse Chateauneuf-du-Pape
花香, 礦石, 剛入杯中還頗有節制的感覺, 還有一些香草, 酒香最為輕盈, 酒體柔軟尚有點結構, 不過在六支裡面掉的最快, 單寧柔細.
WA 89
The 1998 Chateauneuf-du-Pape is an excellent wine, but in the company of its siblings, it gets blown away. However, it is not to be ignored. It possesses a dark ruby/plum color as well as a rich, sweet nose of black fruits, roasted meat, spice, and pepper. There is grip, fat, and tannin, but it can be drunk now and over the next 10-12 years. It is an excellent, possibly outstanding Chateauneuf-du-Pape. This is a brilliant effort from one of the Rhone's most accomplished young winemakers. Drink: 2000 - 2012

1998 Chateau la Nerthe Chateauneuf-du-Pape “Cuvee des Cadettes”
甜美的果香, 杉木, 一些奶油, 醒一陣後是奶油與果香的平衡展現, 頗為喜歡, 可以明顯感覺到是較為現代的酒質, 喝起來口感有點鹹, 尾韻稍微苦澀, 不過整體上來說仍是甜美好喝, 酒體也頗為濃郁, 雖持續力不錯, 但單寧沒有想像中強壯, 可能稍微受損, 仍可陳年.
WA 96
The 1998, which has put on considerable weight since I first tasted it, is a blend of 39% Grenache, 37% Mourvedre, and 24% Syrah. It possesses a dense purple color as well as a glorious bouquet of blackberry liqueur intermixed with aromas of white flowers, licorice, and hints of minerals and garrigue. Full-bodied, chewy, and thick, its enormous wealth of fruit and glycerin conceals substantial tannin. To my taste, this classic is the greatest Des Cadettes made to date (but watch out for the 2001!). Anticipated maturity: 2006-2025.


 

1998 Domaine du Pagau Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee Reservee
皮毛, 腐肉, 石墨等等氣息, 真是騷到臭, 當然大家都知道這是某位收藏家的特殊藏酒風味, 醒一陣後是濃郁的莓果以及菸草味道, 口感喝起來是厚實的果肉, 非常好喝, 酒質平衡感非常好, 除去香氣不說, 這是我今天覺得口感最好的一支酒, 綿柔厚實, 單寧也沒有太多的刺激.
WA 94
The 1998 Cuvee Reservee requires another 2-3 years of cellaring. It is an old style, full-bodied effort revealing notes of roasted meats, beef blood, herbes de Provence, kirsch liqueur, sandalwood, and spice. Rich, full-bodied, moderately tannic, super-pure and dense, this gorgeous offering is the finest Cuvee Reservee produced since 1990. Drink: 2004 - 2020

1998 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle
較清淡與spicy的香氣, 橡木桶奶油氣息, 一些塑膠, 漸漸是皮毛與菸草味道, 時而出現石榴香, 以及非常明顯的椰奶般味道, 香氣複雜多變, 口感酸度是六支裡面最高的, 表現甜美濃郁結構頗好, 尾韻有不錯的收斂感. 這支酒混在一堆南隆河教皇新堡中, 我竟然猜不出是Syrah所釀…是支仍年輕的酒款.
WA 90
This estate's flagship wine, Hermitage La Chapelle, merits its world-renowned reputation.
The outstanding, elegant 1998 Hermitage La Chapelle's dark plum/purple color is followed by scents of new saddle leather, black currants, blackberries, and underbrush. In the mouth, the wine reveals sweet tannin, medium to full body, excellent depth, and an intriguing smokiness. Drink: 2006 - 2030

1998 Chateau Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape
微悶, 礦石, 些許的涼甜感, 稀少的莓果香氣, 菸草絲, 口感一貫是Beaucastel的甜美, 酒質軟綿不過可感覺顆粒稍大, 單寧細柔, 結構不錯, 我也一貫的對他不是很有驚喜感覺.
WA 96
The 1998 is unquestionably one of the great modern day Beaucastels, but because of its high Grenache content, it is different from some of the other classics.
Accessible is the spectacular 1998 Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape. This effort includes more Grenache (40%) in the final blend, as well as 20% Mourvedre, 10% Syrah, 10% Counoise, and the balance from other authorized grape varietals.

1998 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape
涼礦石, 枯葉, 微微皮毛香氣, 醒了一陣後有更多果香與礦石氣息, 伴隨點綴般的奶油香氣, 之後還有粽葉與杉木味道, 是我很喜歡的香氣, 雖然不次特別奔放, 卻平衡多變, 口感微甜美, 結構與單寧都不錯, 口感並不特別討喜, 反而中庸而稍偏冷調感, 頗古典的感覺.
WA 93
Just beginning to blossom, the 1998 is, for me, the finest Vieux-Telegraphe made in twenty years (since the 1978). A spectacular effort, it boasts a deep ruby/purple color and huge concentration, but it was very difficult to assess until a few months ago. I may be committing infanticide as most tasters should give this wine another 3-4 years of cellaring, and drink it over the following 15-20.

2004 Trapiche Vina Carlos Gei Berra Single Vineyard Malbec
酒體紫紅不透光, 辛辣濃縮甜美的果香, 氣息非常有節制感, 在大家喝完一輪Grenache與Syrah後, 讓人猛然一喝以為是新世界的濃甜的Grenache或Syrah, 真是非常有混淆感, 李子醬, 巧克力, 草藥, 不像一般Malbec脂粉味濃厚, 這支酒僅有微微粉味, 非常的收斂, 讓人驚奇, 原來好的Malbec也能有如此強壯的結構.
http://www.trapiche.com.ar
WA 93
The single vineyard wines are each named in honor of the grape grower. The Malbec Single Vineyard Vina Carlos Gei Berra comes from El Cepillo in the San Carlos region of Mendoza. The 2004 Malbec Vina Carlos Gei Berra is purple/black in color with a superb perfume of pain grille, pencil lead, mineral, spice box, black cherry, and blackberry liqueur. This is followed by a medium to full-bodied wine with a supple texture, layers of fruit, spicy black fruit flavors, serious depth, and a long, slightly tannic finish. Give it 5-7 years in the cellar and drink it through 2030. Congratulations to Trapiche for some fantastic Malbecs at friendly prices. If I were a young collector, I’d be stashing these away in my cellar.
Trapiche is best known for its value-priced wines, a number of which are listed at the end of this report in the Best Buy charts. However, the mid-range and upper end of the Trapiche portfolio offer some super wines that should not be missed.